Lifestyle Wanderlust the October 2024 issue

Paradise Calling

Become a carefree castaway on the dreamlike islands of the South Pacific.
By Jonathan Hermann Posted on October 1, 2024

WHEN TO GO

Although hot and humid most of the year, with warm seas and clear skies, the best time to visit is generally between April and November.

CURRENCY

Tahiti: $1=109.14 CFP francs; Fiji: $1=2.25 Fijian dollars; Cook Islands: $1=1.67 New Zealand dollars

LANGUAGE

English is spoken throughout most of the main tourist islands of the South Pacific, though the official languages are French in Tahiti; English, Fijian, and Fiji Hindi in Fiji; and English and Cook Islands M¯aori, also known as Rarotongan, in the Cook Islands.

COMPANIES TO CONSIDER

Paul Gauguin Cruises, Silversea Cruises, Oceania Cruises

But for many travelers the South Pacific conjures up a more focused region with a specific ideal.

We’re talking jungle-draped islands with pristine beaches, where the ocean water turns from crystal cerulean to clean aquamarine the closer it gets to shore, where coral-ringed atolls create tranquil lagoons teeming with colorful wildlife, where Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse were inspired to paint and James Michener and Herman Melville compelled to write, where volcanoes were once gods and the islands themselves were once well-kept secrets.

If that’s not enough enticement, prepare to fall in love with all this region offers, from its passionate island cultures and underwater worlds to the scent of vanilla drifting on the breeze and the endless views from your swaying beach hammock. Here are some of the highlights of this tropical corner of the world.

Tahiti

There’s a certain timeless beauty about Tahiti, the largest of the 118 islands of French Polynesia. The shimmering turquoise waters, the lush and rugged mountains, the miles of quiet beaches, both salty white and peppery black, all paint a picture of paradise. But it’s the border around that picture—the luxurious resorts, overwater bungalows, and tropical spas—that make Tahiti, and the Society Islands archipelago it belongs to, a masterpiece for travelers.

Marché de Papeete

Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia, makes for an excellent home base for your time here. Spend the mornings at Marché de Papeete, an indoor market hall that is both the commercial and social hub of the island, to stroll by stands filled with local crafts, vanilla beans, and ripe fruits. Afterward, promenade along the waterfront to the landscaped gardens and massive banyan trees of les Jardins de Paofai before heading to the only museum in the world devoted entirely to pearls, named, after its founder, the Musée de la Perle Robert Wan.

Dedicate a full day to taking the Circle Island Tour, a 72-mile driving route that sends you past beaches, pineapple plantations, waterfalls, soaring cliffs, and Marae archeological sites. Don’t miss an unforgettable Polynesian history lesson at the Musée de Tahiti et des îles, as well as the range of works on display at the Gauguin Museum highlighting the artist’s life and works during his years on Tahiti.

Next, go island hopping to broaden your understanding and appreciation of the Society Islands. On Huahine, you’ll fall head over eels in love when you hand-feed mackerel to freshwater blue-eyed eels that teem around you excitedly in the island’s mountain streams. Or, if you prefer soaring mountain peaks, rainbow fish, and a sparkling blue-green lagoon, head to Bora Bora, which many consider the most beautiful island in the world.

Colorful fish on Huahine Island

Fiji

Surrounded by clear, dolphin-blue waters and white, powder-soft sand, Fiji encompasses more than 330 islands, but only 110 are inhabited, leaving numerous secluded islands and islets you can sail or ferry to for a truly private experience.

Your escape can begin the moment you touch down on Viti Levu, the largest Fijian island and home to the capital city of Suva. After visiting the Fiji Museum to soak in the country’s fascinating history, you’ll have a tough choice: should you head north to the Suncoast—where you can trek to Fiji’s highest waterfall and up its highest mountain, watch dolphins race across clear-water lagoons, or dip into the world-class dive site at Bligh Water—or drive east to the Coral Coast to take in the awe-sweeping panoramic views of Sigatoka Sand Dunes National Park, hang with Pacific boas and iguanas at Kula Wild Adventure Park, or set out on a modified electric bicycle carriage mounted on an old sugar cane railway and pedal through villages, forests, and deserted beaches. There is no wrong answer here.

Bouma Falls, Fiji

The same holds true when you sail away to discover Fiji’s abundance of smaller islands. While each is a gift to unwrap, the Yasawa Islands are particularly popular thanks to their volcanic outcrops and coral gardens. The ideal way to explore is on a multinight boat journey, dropping anchor off a new island every day. This will give you ample time to plunge through the underwater tunnel at Sawa-i-Lau Caves, hike to the rocky peak at Waya Lailai to swoon over the romantic sunset, or swim with gentle, but extremely large, manta rays in a shallow channel off Drawaqa Island.

Cook Islands

Without a single traffic light on any of its 15 islands, no branded resorts or buildings taller than a coconut tree, and virtually empty beaches, the Cook Islands remind some travelers of Hawaii 60 years ago, while others prefer to think of them as Tahiti without the French. Regardless of your perception, there’s a lot to love about this small, independent country associated with New Zealand.

Te Rua Manga, Rarotonga

Even though the Cook Islands are known for their laid-back vibe, there’s a surprising number of activities to keep you moving. Hiking is popular on Rarotonga, its largest island, where you can trek four hours from the north to south coast on the Cross Island Track, which will take you up to the top of Te Rua Manga, aka The Needle, a tall, rocky pinnacle that can be seen from pretty much anywhere on the island. Or zoom underwater over coral reefs at a leisurely 2.5 mph on a sea scooter, a personal, navigable torpedo-like contraption that pulls you through the water. You can even race a sea turtle!

That’s the South Pacific for you—a blend of the idyllic images you have in your head when you picture paradise combined with ancient and engaging Polynesian culture and inventive ways to immerse yourself in nature. It’s a region of the world where happiness comes naturally, where it’s easy to find contentment in the everyday, and where you can truly escape from the world if you wish.

Surprising absolutely no one, the islands of the South Pacific base their cuisine around fresh seafood. Often cooked with coconut milk or grilled, it typically includes root vegetables like taro and sweet potato, along with fruits such as pineapple and mango. Each island offers unique twists reflecting its heritage. Here are a few to sample.

Poisson cru

Poisson cru (Tahiti) > Don’t let the venomous-sounding name dissuade you. This raw tuna dish marinated in coconut milk with a zest of lime is an ideal way to start a meal or simply enjoy a snack.

Po‘e (Tahiti) > A sweet, jelly-like dish made from manioc (similar to yuca), banana, pumpkin, or papaya, mashed into a pulp, mixed with starch, and then cooked is a favorite dessert across the islands.

Lovo (Fiji) > Usually reserved for weddings or other large celebrations, lovo is meat, vegetables, and fish wrapped in banana leaves and cooked in a hole in the ground lined with coconut husks.

Cawaki (Fiji) > An edible sea urchin, cawaki can be eaten fresh and raw or cooked on a fire before being cracked open and doused in lemon juice and chili.

Ika Mata (Cook Islands) > The unofficial national dish of the Cook Islands, this flavorful salad consists of lemon-marinated raw fish, coconut cream, and finely chopped vegetables.

Curried Octopus (Cook Islands) > Known locally as eke, small pieces of octopus are fried with onions, garlic, curry powder, and coconut milk and served with white rice.

Waters this blue were meant to be sailed, and there’s an undeniable romance to cruising around the clear lagoons and inlets of the South Pacific, calling in on the choicest islands and admiring the region’s dreamy scenery from the comfort of a ship. Smaller ships and sailing yachts reign in this region, ready to take you to these islands.

Opunohu Bay, Moorea, Society Islands

Moorea, Society Islands > Moorea is well known for preserving Polynesian culture and tradition. One of the most popular events is the Tiki Village Dance Show, where dancers show off their prowess, including fire dancing.

Taha‘a, Society Islands > On this flower-shaped island, surrounded by a string of tiny islands called motus, tour by bicycle and stop at one of its rum distilleries to sample tasty spirits (in moderation, of course.… You have to safely return the bike!).

Aitutaki, Cook Islands > Spend your time here snorkeling in its large multihued lagoon, which rivals Bora Bora’s in pure beauty, or taking an easy hike to the highest peak on the island, Maunga Pu, where you’ll be rewarded with 360-degree views.

Savusavu, Fiji > Hidden on the largely undeveloped northern island of Vanua Levu, Savusavu feels like the South Pacific in its purest state, pre-colonization. Here you can visit a black pearl farm, meet locals in small villages, or spot colorful native birds at the pristine Waisali Rainforest Reserve.

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