Europe’s Unsung Sea
When you think of Europe’s historic maritime regions, the Baltic Sea is rarely top of mind.
Not only is it positioned at the top of the continent, geographically estranged from the more familiar epicenters of Europe, but it’s also a geological newborn. The youngest sea in the world, it was created during the conclusion of the last ice age roughly 10,000 years ago, a blink of an eye compared to the 5.3-million-year-old Mediterranean. Yet during its relatively short history, the Baltic Sea has become a force in its own right and a worthy destination.
WHEN TO GO
May to September. August is the hottest month across Europe and popular tourist sites can get crowded.
CURRENCY
Denmark: 1 USD = 6.93 Danish kroner; Sweden: 1 USD = 10.79 Swedish kronor; Finland and Estonia: 1 USD = .93 euros
LANGUAGE
Danish, Swedish, Finnish, and Estonian, though English is understood in most tourist areas.
COMPANIES TO CONSIDER
Holland America Line, Royal Caribbean, Norwegian Cruise Line, and Princess Cruises
The port cities that line its shores are thriving metropolises overflowing with adventure, culture, and history. Copenhagen, Stockholm, Helsinki, and Tallinn all offer a unique blend of medieval architecture, modern design, and arctic beauty. In these cities you’ll find majestic palaces lined with priceless works of art, decadent cuisine plucked fresh from the sea, and saunas that rival a Roman emperor’s bathhouse. Some call these fairy-tale cities, but they are most definitely real.
Copenhagen
Set on the strait that separates Denmark from Sweden and connects the Baltic and North Seas, the Danish capital is not a “wow, would you look at that” kind of city (the statue of hometown hero Hans Christian Andersen’s Little Mermaid is the closest you’ll get). Instead, it envelops you in a stylish, welcoming atmosphere, which sinks into your soul as you wander. But there’s only so much time for aimless strolling; you’ll need to get a move on to experience the city to its fullest.
Called the “City of Spires” for its church- and castle-dotted skyline, Copenhagen is both a modern metropolis and a historic marvel. You can get a feel for the capital’s past in spots such as the 17th-century Nyhavn waterfront, a series of café-studded canals lined by pastel-colored townhouses, and the Amalienborg Palace, the seat of one of the world’s oldest monarchies, which is surrounded by photogenic 18th century mansions.
The city is also famous for its parks and gardens. Its oldest, the 400-year-old King’s Garden at Rosenborg Castle, is the most visited thanks to its stately treelined walkways, rose-bound arches, and sculpture garden. In the numerous 19th century greenhouses at the Botanical Garden, you’ll find a butterfly house and a tropical palm house dating to 1874. The town’s most famous garden, though, is more amusing than floriferous. Tivoli Gardens, a popular theme park founded in 1843, is a fairy-tale land of exotic architecture, historic buildings, twinkling lights, and fabulous rides that inspired one Walt Disney to create something similar in the United States.
Stockholm
To say Stockholm’s setting is dramatic is an understatement. Sprawled across an archipelago of 14 interconnected islands, Sweden’s capital, which is more than 700 years old, is frequently cited as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe due to a cityscape that is equal parts woodland, water, and buildings. Inside those buildings, you’ll find more than 100 museums, long-running theater and opera companies, and a booming culinary scene, including several Michelin-starred restaurants.
Many of the museums are wonderfully unique. At the Vasa Museum you’ll find a near-intact, 64-gun, 17th-century warship that sank within minutes of its maiden voyage to be preserved in the Baltic mud. Learn about two of Sweden’s favorite passions—ABBA and schnapps— at ABBA The Museum and the Spritmuseum, respectively. And take a trip back in time at Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum, set on the charming island of Djurgården, with its historic farmhouses, trade shops, and even a zoo that includes Gotland ponies, a rare breed native to Sweden.
Don’t miss Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town, a labyrinth of snug cobblestone streets and medieval alleyways packed with cafés serving hot chocolate and grilled waffles. While the Kungliga Slottet, a 600-room royal palace completed in 1760, is worth your time, the best sights are from 140 feet high on a rooftop tour that safely begins atop the Old Parliament House and leads strapped-in thrill-seekers to breathtaking vistas.
Helsinki
Finland’s capital and largest city is both vibrant and serene, courtesy of its wealth of parks, unique architecture, and scenic waterfront. Having earned “City of Design” status from UNESCO, it’s a bastion of style, from art nouveau architecture to countless galleries.
The central hub of the city’s creativity can be found in the aptly named Design District, a patchwork of 25 streets threaded together to showcase over 200 designers. The top stop here is the Designmuseo (Design Museum), which looks historically Scandinavian from the outside but inside houses a massive, oftentimes trippy, showcase of 151 years’ worth of revolutionary fashion, industrial, and graphic design.
It’s easy to explore the rest of the city on bike—namely, by Jopo, a gearless, unisex bike made famous in Finland in the 1960s and still popular today. Cycling through the city can be tiring, but the Finns have the perfect solution: saunas. Boasting more than 3 million public and private saunas for a nation of 5.5 million people, it is truly hard to miss one during your visit. While any of these saunas can provide steamy solace, Yrjönkatu Swimming Hall, which is currently being renovated, is Finland’s oldest swimming pool and home to multiple saunas. Surprisingly, swimsuits are not required in its 25-meter pool, though women and men are only allowed to swim during divided sessions.
Tallinn
Just 50 miles south of Helsinki, on the shores of the Gulf of Finland in northwestern Estonia, is one of Northern Europe’s oldest capitals. With roots going back to the 13th century, Tallinn is a history book come to life, a lively city that will whisk you hundreds of years into the past as you stroll along its UNESCO-designated center, Old Town.
You could spend your entire visit in this historic area, and no one would blame you. The Town Hall Square would certainly capture your attention, surrounded as it is with cafés, the oldest town hall in Northern Europe (built around 1322), and possibly the oldest continuously operating pharmacy in all of Europe (first mentioned in the historical record in 1422). Also, St. Nicholas’ Church makes for a spiritual excursion. The 13th-century church is today home to the Niguliste Museum of medieval and early modern ecclesiastical art, and you can visit the tip of the steeple for a grandiose view of the surroundings.
After seeing the many ancient sights of Old Town, strolling through Kadriorg Park offers a pleasant change of scenery. Home to Kadriorg Palace, built in the early 18th century for Peter the Great and now also home to an art museum, the park is a sprawling oasis of lush greenery, flower beds, a swan pond, cultural monuments, a Japanese garden, and more.
As you can see, for such a cold, dark body of water, the Baltic is alight with bright metropolitan gems. Each city and country has much more to show you than what’s on display here, but wherever you venture along these shores, you will surely be met with unforgettable scenes.
CRUISE CORNER
The Baltic Sea is a relatively calm inland body of water that’s best explored in warmer weather. There are close to 30 ports along the coastline, with Copenhagen, Stockholm, Helsinki, and Tallinn among the most commonly visited. Here’s four more you could enjoy on your cruise.
St. Petersburg, Russia > Although currently off most Baltic itineraries following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, St. Petersburg is worthy of a visit once Americans are safely welcomed back. The unique city is filled with European-style avenues, Amsterdam-like canals, and expansive plazas.
Oslo, Norway > An underrated Scandinavian capital, Oslo has a compact city center that’s easy to explore during a port visit. Options include seeing Edvard Munch’s celebrated The Scream at the National Gallery or finding whimsical sculptures at Frogner Park.
Rotterdam, the Netherlands > Several Baltic cruises set out from this city that was devastated in World War II but rebuilt itself into Europe’s biggest port. Catch the latest experimental modern art exhibition at the Kunsthal, designed by architect Rem Koolhaas, or browse the 96 stalls at Markthal to sample delicious Dutch cheeses and fresh fish.
Visby, Sweden > A small town on the island of Gotland, this popular trading spot during the Viking Age is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walk along the medieval Ring Wall, a 2-mile fortification built in the 13th century, for fantastic views of more than 50 towers surrounded by moats. Or visit the Gotlands Museum to see the Spillings Hoard, the world’s largest Viking silver treasure trove.
TASTY TREATS
Northern European cuisine is known for its rich and robust dishes, often made with smoked meat or fish. Soups and stews are also popular to keep warm in the cold. Here are a few to seek out during your travels.
Smørrebrød (Denmark) > These open-faced sandwiches are popular for lunch, made of rye bread topped with such ingredients as pickled herring, roast beef, and eggs.
Stegt flæsk (Denmark) > Denmark’s national dish is a delicious and warming plate of crispy pork, boiled potatoes, and parsley sauce.
Kanelbulle (Sweden) > This fabulous cinnamon bun—sometimes flavored with cardamom, saffron, and vanilla— is best served for a fika, the dailypractice of sitting down with a coffee and sweet treat.
Kalakukko (Finland) > A traditional pie prepared with rye flour and filled with fish, pork, and bacon.
Blini (Russia) > Thin pancakes that can be served with black or red caviar, or with sour cream (smetana), jam, and condensed milk